Revolution in the Palace:
Haderlump SS27
WRITTEN BY NISHA BANGA
EDITED BY LAUREN BULLA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LA MIKS
BERLIN FASHION WEEK
07.07.26
Set amongst one of Hotel Adlon’s opulent chambers, the pulse of bass-heavy electronic music drove loud and defiantly. It could be heard deep within its walls. Indeed, defiance is clearly at the forefront of Johan Ehrhardt’s SS27 offerings. It needn’t take long to realize the elected setting was anything but arbitrary. Instead guests are presented with a direct staging of sartorial confrontation. Haderlump presented a reflection on power as it unfolds in our modern age. Beneath the rattle of chandeliers, the first six looks were markedly uniform. A striding series of full length overcoats command the audience’s attention. The forms were structured, yet remained softened by cascading fabrics. Repetition was a key tool utilized in this collection. Long silhouettes became undulating variations on the greatcoat (the German military greatcoat of the previous century).
Symmetry by way of intricate pleating and high button closures, were presented in the first reading of these garments. Yet, subtle variations began to disclose themselves. The material is quintessential to the designs, relaying the underlying inspiration. Sustainability has become an integral part of fashion week, with many designers making use of deadstock materials. Haderlump is no different. One can imagine boxes of disused military surplus exhumed, to be reimagined on this season’s runway. This collection featured feldgrau (field gray), which is strategically used to create a thematic expansion, beyond buttoned greatcoats. Additionally, it is showcased amongst dresses, where the fabric reaches an interesting conclusion in new forms. The oversized, utilitarian cloth troubles the conventions of dressmaking more generally. Particularly at the seams and pleats, where the cloth almost forms an aesthetic misuse of material. Mix in cinched belts, sheer layers and corsage, becomes an innovative defiance.
Ehrhardt is no stranger to shifting the rhetoric of everyday fashion. Each piece is a consummation of resilience, becoming armour of self expression. The layered greatcoat is adorned with detail-oriented hardware. Eyelet corsets embellish coats and belts, cascading trousers remain structured, and present new movement. The revolution beneath the chandeliers is broken periodically, punctured by unlined, white tailored coats. Their slim construction is made visible by transparent fabrics, an uncompromising optic white. This fashion house has refined itself over the years. Paying attention to high quality craftsmanship, sustainable best practices, all showcased in its unique avant-garde vision.
The show was a masterpiece in resilience, in juxtaposing softness and weight. Haderlump refined what it means to present revolution by way of tradition, paving a new path forward for SS27 BFW.
